Drycleaning finishing

Techniques for solving finishing problems

27 October 2009



Roger Cawood explains how to achieve a good result on some of the more difficult garments and fabrics


Trousers account for around 40% of a typical drycleaner’s workload. Some of these may be difficult to finish to a high standard but because there are standard techniques and drycleaners deal with them regularly and in large volumes, most established finishers will be able to draw on their experience to achieve a good result.

This also applies to jackets, although I have found that many finishers rely mainly on forming equipment such as rotor cabinets, and make only minimal use of the press or ironing table.

It is essential that staff working as finishers know what a well-finished garment looks like. Unfortunately some finishers and even some staff who are responsible for the final inspection do not have a clear idea of the standard that should be achieved. So garments may be returned with obvious faults such as soft pleats, a poor overall finish on coats and flat or uneven lapels on jackets.

This is a basic training problem. All staff should know the standard that they are expected to achieve and managers should make regular detailed quality checks to ensure that standards are met and maintained.

The right equipment

The choice of equipment is fundamental to achieving high standards. Both presses and ironing tables have their strengths and weaknesses. Businesses that can justify having both types will gain an advantage.

In my view presses are generally the best option for trouser finishing and for garments such as heavy coats. The ironing table is essential for wedding/ball gowns, intricate dresses and especially for sunray pleats.

Ideally presses should have a steam iron and the ironing table should have ironing surface steam and air blowing functions. It should also have foot controls on both sides. The need for dual controls is often overlooked but approximately 25% of the population is left handed and a table that only has controls on the right can be difficult for a left-handed operator.

In addition to the press or table, having a Susie/Dolly with superheated steam or a multi-finisher can be helpful and will reduce the time and effort needed for many difficult garments.

Bridal dresses, ball gowns

There are no formalised methods for bridal dresses or ball gowns so the finisher must decide the best techniques each time.

However, the finishing of such garments should be considered during the counter inspection as they may need extra work that warrants a charge.

Wedding dresses that have several underskirts may be much easier to finish if these are removed and then replaced.

Heavily-soiled underskirts can usually be wet-processed and, if necessary, starched.

Trims may need to be removed or protected.

The first step in finishing is to decide which techniques to use. Put the garment on a hanger and inspect it closely to decide where to start.

If a former or multi-finisher is available, it can be used for pre-finishing. After this stage, I recommend finishing the bodice and top, then the sleeves and finally the skirt area. If the skirt is finished first, it will often become creased and wrinkled when the sleeves and bodice are treated.

The finishing method will mainly be dictated by the type of fabric although the structure must also be considered. Many wedding dresses are made from 100% polyester, which makes the cleaning and finishing processes much simpler.

Polyester can be steam-ironed at medium temperature using the air blower or it can be finished using bottom steam and a mock iron/paddle. Both techniques will enable large areas of fabric to be finished quickly and with the minimum of effort, depending on the volume of steam available.

They will also minimise the risk of seam impressions.

Placing an old sheet on the floor will prevent gowns inadvertently picking up soiling.

These techniques can also be used to good effect for finishing satin fabrics but finishers must take great care with acetate satin as it can lose its lustre if subjected to high temperature and water simultaneously. This can easily happen if a former or steam iron spits out condensate or if condensate is formed on a mock iron at the start of finishing and the fault cannot be corrected.

Mock irons should always be pre-heated using bottom steam before starting finishing operations.

Silk fabrics can be steam ironed at medium temperature or pressed using a polished-head press or a clothed head. If achieving a satisfactory finish proves difficult, lightly apply a fine mist spray then iron the fabric at medium temperature with vacuum but without steam. Silk can also be finished using the mock iron and/or the steam iron and air blower.

The linen problem

Drycleaners have always known that finishing linen can bring problems. Cellulosic textiles normally require finishing at high temperatures (around 200C). Under normal production conditions, scissor presses and steam-heated irons seldom reach more than 120C but using an electric iron at high temperature could lead to shine and glazing on structured clothing.

However, the required standards are changing. Many linen garments are now sold with a relaxed or wrinkled look that is a feature of the design or an inherent property of the fabric.

Several years ago I advised a mail order company on improving the finish on some linen jackets. I asked to see new stock items for comparison and found that the re-finished jackets were at least as good if not better than the new stock.

Drycleaners that have problems achieving a finish that satisfies them or their customer should try the following method.

Finish the item to the best possible standard on the press or ironing table.

Steam in the rotor cabinet for approximately 9seconds.

Remove from the cabinet and mist lightly all over with a top quality spray starch.

Allow the item to condition for around minute, then return the garment to the cabinet. Operate the normal automatic cycle, which should provide 15seconds steam and 20seconds air blowing.

Finally, touch up with the iron if necessary.

Good results on raincoats

Wool raincoats are generally straightforward to finish. Cotton or cotton/polyester garments can present difficulties in avoiding impression marks from seams facings and pocket linings. The problem often occurs after the garment has been finished on a former and is then transferred to a press or ironing table for the final stage. There are techniques that can avoid the risk.

If working on a press for this last stage, remember that difficult areas can be bottom steamed. Using a mock iron may help to improve the result.

Immediately after steaming and while the fabric is still hot, stretch the fabric with your hands to remove wrinkles and creases and then apply vacuum while still stretching the fabric. This will normally prevent impression marks forming.

When working on an ironing table, use a steam iron and the air blower simultaneously for difficult areas. If the table has a surface steam option, the fabric can also be steamed and again the mock iron may be helpful. The fabric should then be stretched with the hands.

Sunray pleats

Sunray pleats, often referred to as concertina pleats, are becoming more popular but counter staff frequently fail to distinguish between this type of pleating and press pleating.

Sunray/concertina pleats must be identified before the garment is accepted as this pleating can take over half an hour to finish so an extra charge should be made.

Ideally sunray pleats should be ironed one at a time. Turn the item inside out and select the first exterior pleat to be ironed. Choose a pleat next to the zip or placket so the starting point is obvious.

Iron the pleat, taking care to avoid the two adjacent inside pleats. Continue to iron the alternate (outside) pleats around the skirt. When complete, reverse the garment and repeat the above procedure, again taking care to avoid ironing out the two adjacent pleats that have been ironed when the skirt was inside out.

Some experienced staff that are skilled in handling pleats will iron two at a time but great care is needed to avoid pleat impressions.

Acrylic pile and velvet

Acrylic pile furnishing fabrics require careful handling to avoid distorting the pile. The pile’s condition should be checked carefully when the items are brought into the shop.

Heavy-wear creasing on cushion covers cannot normally be corrected. These fabrics are extremely heat sensitive and will suffer permanent damage if, for example, they are folded and then left on top of a warm ironing table.

Remove pile fabrics from the drycleaning machine immediately the cage stops rotating and then hang or fold them.

Leaving them in the cage for any length of time can cause permanent creasing.

Under normal circumstances, cleaners should not try to finish acrylic pile fabrics as there is a high risk of distortion.

If the cleaner does feel a need to improve the finish, I would recommend obtaining a signed owner’s risk agreement before starting. Then steam the fabric very lightly with bottom or surface steam followed by plenty of vacuum. Take great care to avoid touching the pile until vacuuming is complete and the fabric is cold. One mistake can easily result in permanent pile damage.

Acetate and silk velvets can be lightly steamed with care using bottom/ironing surface steam but they should not be brushed. Again, take care to avoid touching the pile before it has been fully cooled with the vacuum.

In contrast, cotton velvets will benefit considerably if they are brushed with a medium brush while applying bottom/ironing surface steam.

Velvet fabrics will usually respond better to drycleaning if they are turned inside out. This helps to bring up the pile during the drying cycle.

Lightweight wool

Pure wool textiles are normally quite straightforward to finish either on a press or ironing table. However, some lightweight wools, which are frequently used in designer garments, can tax even experienced staff and require precise finishing techniques to produce the high standards of finish expected.

These fabrics can emphasise even the slightest imperfection in finish and the faults may only be apparent when the garment is inspected.

Hygral expansion sometimes causes problems as the moisture content of wool fabrics varies.

On lightweight wool-wovens this change may result in seam pucker and the appearance of bubbling or a seersucker effect. Therefore the use of free steam should be minimal.

It is important that finishing staff are aware of this little known property of wool as they will often instinctively increase the amount of steam when they encounter difficulties in finishing.

It may be necessary to try different pressing or ironing techniques to produce a good finish on a lightweight wool designer suit.

The following methods should prove to be helpful.

Trousers: The centre leg lays can be pressed using minimum top steam. If vacuum is applied after steaming, it should be taken off before the head is released and the leg stretched and smoothed by hand.

Then apply vacuum again to set the finish. The finish can be touched up with the iron, either without steam or with minimal steam.

Alternatively the centre leg lays can be completely finished with the iron to avoid excess pressure on the seams. Use minimum steam or no steam at all. Minor imperfections can be corrected on the hanger with minimal free steam from the iron.

Jackets: An air blowing ironing table is ideal for many jackets. After the jacket has been on the former, the first step is to finish the lining. Iron lightly using the blower to remove superficial creases, then where necessary iron the exterior.

Lapels must be set correctly and finished with precise attention to detail as they are critical to the jacket’s appearance.

The lapel can either be pressed or ironed face down – this helps to avoid impression marks and shine on the outer edges. The lapel should then be rolled and set, with the roll ending at or just above the top button.

This can be done by holding the lapel in the correct position and applying minimum steam from the collar area two-thirds down towards the top button, firming with the fingers. Follow with vacuum to set the finish but do not apply pressure with the iron.

Common faults

Glazing on seams and shiny areas is often the result of home ironing and the normal effects of wear. It should be brought to the customer’s attention at the reception as they may be unaware of the fault.

It is often impossible to remove glazing and/or double creases from polyester, so making the customer aware of the fault is particularly important in this case.

Steaming the affected area will remove seam impressions from most fabrics. If you are using a press it is worth looking at the condition of the press clothing as seam impressions can be a direct result of hard, consolidated press coverings and/or excessive locking pressure.

Glaze and shine marks can be removed or the condition improved by steaming and brushing simultaneously. The type of brush is important. It should have fairly stiff bristles. A suede brush that has a copper centre surrounded with bristles is ideal for most fabrics. Brush the fabric fairly vigorously, taking care not to apply too much pressure.

Double creases in trousers are a persistent problem for finishers. Some such creases cannot be removed so point out the fault to the customer at reception.

The first step is to check if the creases are permanent. To do this, attempt to press or iron out the creases in the seat. If an electric steam iron is available, set the temperature as appropriate for the fabric and then iron slowly without vacuum to bring the temperature up then apply the vacuum.

If this treatment works, the creases can be removed and positioned correctly. If pressing, apply plenty of top steam followed by vacuum. In the case of cellulosic fabrics (cotton or linen, for example) try applying a fine mist spray then iron without steam followed by vacuum.

Finally, if you are unsure about how to finish a particular textile always check the aftercare label, it may give you all the information you need.


4 4
2 2
3 3
1 1
5 5


Privacy Policy
We have updated our privacy policy. In the latest update it explains what cookies are and how we use them on our site. To learn more about cookies and their benefits, please view our privacy policy. Please be aware that parts of this site will not function correctly if you disable cookies. By continuing to use this site, you consent to our use of cookies in accordance with our privacy policy unless you have disabled them.