Automation helps quality and productivity

A drycleaner’s choice of finishing equipment can have a big effect both on the standard of the result and the time taken to produce a well finished garment.

This applies equally to businesses that have just started and to those that are well established. The range of automated equipment is now much wider than it was 30 or 40 years ago.

However, I believe that only a few cleaners understand or appreciate the advantages and disadvantages such equipment. So purchasing decisions are often based mainly on the capital cost rather than on an informed choice based on the contribution that the equipment will make to quality, productivity and to reducing labour costs.

There are various types of automated equipment, but it is important that these are seen as finishing aids and not as the sole means of finishing garments.

Types of equipment

Garment former: open units that are used only for pre-finishing jackets, coats and dresses; may require local extract ventilation to maintain comfortable working conditions

Rotor cabinets: enclosed units used for pre-finishing jackets, coats, dresses and trousers; can be connected by ducting so that they exhaust steam and heat outside the production area

Multifinishers: open units that are used for pre-finishing jackets, coats, dresses and wedding dresses; use super-heated steam; and may require local extract ventilation to maintain comfortable working conditions

Rotary multifinishers: enclosed units that are used for pre-finishing jackets, coats, dresses and trousers, use super-heated steam and can be connected by ducting so that they exhaust steam and heat outside the production area

Trouser toppers: open units that are used for pre-finishing trousers; super-heated steam optional; may require local extract ventilation to maintain comfortable working conditions

There are two basic types of automated equipment that have been in widespread use by cleaners for many years: the garment former often referred to as a Susie or dolly and the rotor cabinet. Formers and rotor cabinets can both be supplied in a basic form or as machines that incorporate added features, the most important option being air volume control.

In recent years super-heated steam has become an important option that is available on some rotor cabinets.

Trouser toppers have also been available for many years, but are not as widely used by the high street cleaner as the former and rotor cabinet, which are found in most production shops.

The way in which garments respond to finishing on automated equipment depends to a great degree on steam temperature. In general terms, higher steam temperatures will relax the creases and wrinkles in garments more quickly and much more effectively.

In a standard rotor cabinet, garment temperatures are unlikely to exceed 75C and can be less than 70C. However, garment formers will often reach temperatures of around 100C. The use of super-heated steam on multifinishers increases finishing temperatures to around 120C. The actual temperatures achieved on any given piece of equipment will be influenced by the steam time settings.

The ability to regulate the volume of air is also important as it will allow the operator to make appropriate adjustments for specific garment types. Having the correct air volume means that garments such as heavy overcoats can be tensioned correctly during the drying/cooling stage. The correct air volume can also be critical in achieving the highest standard of finish – too much air in particular can leave stretch marks in lighter weight garments.

All multifinishers, including rotary types, have air volume control and use superheated steam.

With all types of automated equipment, garments must be prepared (positioned and adjusted) with care.

Using a garment former

The use of garment formers is limited to the pre-finishing of coats, jackets and some dresses.

The shoulder supports are normally adjustable to accommodate various sizes. On some equipment it is also possible to adjust the bag to suit the garment size, but in my experience, this feature is rarely used.

You should specify air volume control, when buying this type of equipment. Formers discharge a lot of steam and heat, so you will also need to have good ventilation during the summer months.

To obtain the best standards of finish, garments must be positioned correctly on the former and the locking pressure on the front clamp should not be too tight.

Sleeve extenders or cuff plugs should be used for most items. Vent clips must be attached as appropriate to help garments keep their correct shape during forming. Formers are not enclosed, so badly wrinkled or creased garments can be brushed during the steam cycle, and this helps to remove any deep-seated creases which might not otherwise respond fully.

Rotor cabinets are probably the most widely used form of automated finisher. They are normally supplied with a jacket/coat form on one side of the door and a trouser topper on the other.

Air volume control is not as critical for a cabinet as it is for garment formers but it will give an advantage.

Rotor cabinets can be connected by ducting to exhaust steam and heat out of the production area, making the work area more comfortable in summer. However, the ducting can be disconnected in winter to provide extra heat. This equipment can help to provide good working conditions year round.

The cabinets need pre-heating before use to prevent condensation on the interior surfaces and should be kept heated if left standing for any length of time. They are therefore best suited to businesses that handle high volumes.

When preparing the garments, remember that as there are no front clamps, jacket buttons must be fastened as appropriate. Because steam is injected through the top of the garments, it is particularly important that trouser zips are fastened.

Sleeve extenders or cuff plugs should be used for most items. Clamps and vent clips must be attached as appropriate. These add weight to the bottom of the garment and make a large contribution to standards of finish, particularly on heavily creased items as the cabinet is closed so garments cannot be brushed during the steam/air cycle.

Maximising multifinishers

Multifinishers can be used for pre-finishing coats, jackets, a wide range of dresses, ball gowns and some wedding dresses.

Jackets and coats can be secured to the base of the multifinisher by means of front and back clamps with Velcro-like inserts, and this gives them an advantage over formers and rotor cabinets.

Once the bottom of the garment is secured, side tensioners open inside the garment completely securing the hem area to the base.

The shoulder support, which is adjustable to a considerable height, then lifts upwards to tension the garment in the vertical plane.

The steam/air cycle then follows, as once preparation has been completed, the whole operation is automatic.

This equipment discharges a lot of steam and heat, so good ventilation is essential during the summer months.

Multifinishers can produce a superb finish, provided garments are correctly prepared. Both standard and rotary multifinishers are ideal for finishing wetcleaned garments.

Sleeve extenders or cuff plugs should be used for most items and it is also very important that vent clips are attached to jackets that have double back vents.

Where necessary, garments can be brushed during the steam cycle and some finishers have a steam iron to improve the finish on difficult items.

Rotary multifinishers operate in the same way as the standard type, but can also top trousers.

On a rotary finisher, the trouser topper has clamps at the base which tension/stretch the garment during the automatic cycle helping to reduce creasing.

As rotary multifinishers are enclosed, they need to be pre-heated and they cannot accommodate ball gowns or wedding dresses.

Another disadvantage is that garments cannot be brushed during the steam/air cycle. Ideally, this type of automated equipment should be vented outside the production area.

Like the standard version, rotary multifinishers can produce a superb finish, provided the preparation is done correctly.

Sleeve extenders or cuff plugs should be used for most items and again vent clips must be attached to jackets with double back vents.

Trouser toppers are ideal for finishing garments, that have been wetcleaned, as movable clamps in the base of the topper tension the legs during the steam/air cycle.

Stand-alone toppers are often used in conjunction with a garment former or multifinisher and produce very good standards of finish on the tops and the legs.

Drycleaners who are considering buying a trouser topper or rotary multifinisher should remember that, although they produce a very good finish, the high temperatures involved will remove creases completely on some fabrics.

This means that there will be no crease to act as a guide when ironing or pressing the trousers.

This will seldom occur with a rotor cabinet as operating temperatures are lower.

Future developments

I believe that the new multifinisher manufactured under licence for Electrolux will prove significant. The machine has been developed specifically to improve the multifinisher’s capabilities for use with the company’s Lagoon wetcleaning system.

The design is extensively modified so the equipment delivers an increased amount of hot air to the shoulder area and upper areas of garments.

This should considerably reduce the time and skill required to finish structured garments that have been wetcleaned.

Automated finishing equipment can produce very good results, but it must be well maintained and operated by well-trained staff.

Provided both these conditions are met, it will make a big contribution both to the quality of a drycleaning service and to productivity.