Judging by results

Finishing is the most visible part of the drycleaning process and perhaps the most important as customers can only judge by end results. What makes a well finished garment? The most usual answer is that it should look as near new as possible. Certainly this is the response from Tony Lee, of Lee’s Cleaners and chief examiner in drycleaning to the Guild of Cleaners and Launderers.

There is a proviso that the end results will depend to some extent on the initial state of the garment, its age, and the amount of wear and tear it has seen.

Ken Cupitt, master of the college of fellows at the Guild of Cleaners and Launderers and md of Chester drycleaners Service Sure, says that if the customers feel they have had good value, then he feels he has done a good job.

Making decisions

A good result must be a matter of meeting, or even exceeding, customer expectations. J B Hartley Personal Dry Cleaning Service is a long established Leeds business which handles a mixed range of work, high-quality clothing, day-to-day work clothes and even gardening trousers. Here, Neville Hartley says “You have to decide what you can achieve before raising expectations.” He explains that if a perfect finish is not possible, because of the garment’s condition or age or because it contains a fault that cannot be completely corrected, then telling customers what can be achieved beforehand will help to forestall complaints as they will have already agreed to the likely outcome.

He adds that cleaners now have to handle a wide range of fabrics. It’s no longer a case of silk, cotton, wool and the occasional man-made fabric. Complex fibre mixes are now available. Linen and linen mixes are difficult to finish, particularly when shaped. Stretch fabrics may have stretched into an odd shape and are not always easy to get flat.

That crumpled look

Garment finish and construction has also changed. Some have built-in creasing or crumpling. How much of that is left in the finish is a matter of customer preference and should be discussed.

Garments brought into the drycleaner are often those that are too complex to deal with at home, or those where home treatment has been less than successful. In the last case, says Neville Hartley, you don’t always know what the problems are until you start.

So the garment examination and decisions made at the counter are all important. You can save yourself a lot of headaches, by putting in time at this stage, he says.

While perfection may not always be achievable, there are standards to aim for. Quality lies in the detail.

Tony Lee gives some of the points he would look for in his role as an examiner. In many respects this is a list of faults that should be avoided. On a jacket there should be no pocket imprints, no creases in the sleeves and, the one ‘must-do’ the lapel must be rolled.

Similarly, well finished trousers will have no zip or button imprints. If trousers are lined there should be no lining imprints, although Tony Lee does acknowledge that lined trousers can be difficult.

There should be no pleat imprints, pencil pleats will need particular care. Sleeves on blouses and dresses should always be rolled.

Dexterity in handling the equipment is also a must. Ken Cupitt explains the points he notes when assessing examination delegates. Are they handling the garment more than they need to? (Overhandling is the most common fault). Following the first lay, is the way the garment being handled likely to crush or crease it? Is the clothing being treated with due regard to its fabric and make-up? On some items you will need to bring the head of the press down, but some fabrics (in particular acrylics) may be heat sensitive.

Do they put too much effort into the pressing? Again this is a common fault. You have to know when going further could damage the garment or make the result poorer.

But there is no universal technique, says Tony Lee, and cleaners develop their own preferences.

The range of equipment available to the cleaner has changed, finishing aids such as formers or cabinets will help in the process and are accepted in Guild examinations.

Debate

The old debate of ironing tables versus the traditional Hoffman Press seems to be fading, as tables become more acceptable.

Neville Hartley says his business uses both. He has always used a scissor press and still does for most of the work. A press is the best way to produce a correct trouser crease as it’s easier to get a continuous line, but he wouldn’t want to be without an iron for touching up garments, especially jackets and coat details.

Tony Lee, himself a trained Hoffman presser, believes the use of table or press is largely a matter of choice and training. New staff, particularly those already reasonably adept with a domestic iron, will find it easier to reach a good professional standard with an ironing table.

However, talking to others within the drycleaning industry highlights some reservations. Tables, like all equipment, must be used correctly. For example, heavyweight coats are notoriously difficult to finish, and problems may arise if these are finished on a table that does not have any surface steam.

Equipment must also be properly maintained and properly adjusted. Hard press-clothing, or table clothing that is in poor condition will lead to inferior results.

On a press, incorrect locking pressure or alignment of top and bottom bucks will also lead to poor results. Wrong adjusted steam/air equipment will also cause problems.

Of the newer drycleaning technologies, hydrocarbon is thought to make little difference to the finishing process.

Wetcleaning is another matter. This technique, says Ken Cupitt, increases the need for finishing with garments taking twice or even four times as long to finish satisfactorily.

Another view is that wet cleaning not only calls for greater skills but where high volumes of wetcleaning are handled there will be a need for a wide range of equipment, presses, tables, and in particular multi-finishers.

Setting standards

Formal training courses will help set and maintain standards and SATRA designs its courses to meet the examination criteria set by the Guild of Cleaners and Launderers. The finishing course covers correct techniques for all types of garments and household textiles and gives special consideration to ironing of sensitive fabrics; care labelling; use and care of equipment; and health and safety issues.

However, the most important feature is the correct use of steam and vacuum in relation to the type of fabric. Cleaners must learn to re-shape the garment and set the fabric, to give a well- finished appearance.

Indeed, the overuse of steam is the most common fault, particularly when touching up garments with a steam iron while they are on a hanger. This can put excess moisture into the fabric, causing limpness and loss of shape.

Other common faults are: glazing caused by excessive use of the iron on thermoplastics such as polyester and acetate; and poor shaping of garments caused by the incorrect use of lays.

Less intimidating

The courses cover both tables and presses, but SATRA points out that the equipment can only perform as well as the person using it.

Ironing tables may be less intimidating for newcomers but they require no less skill to obtain a satisfactory finish. The wide range of fashion styles and fabric components means that garments are becoming increasingly difficult to finish. Effective training on all equipment, including tables, can enhance finishing skills and bring considerable benefits to the business.

The courses also cover presentation techniques including correct folding and collar/cuff presentation; presenting sunray pleated skirts, to preserve the pleating; and curtain hanging and display.

The section will soon be extended to cover advice on the best types of packaging to use for particular garments such as wedding gowns.